Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A worthy companion to its neighbour. Start at a low short crack 1.5m right of the boulder at the base of The Laughing Cavaliers. Ascend the crack and wall above to slabby ground (good gear available). Climb direct until below an overlap not too far from the top of the crag. Now traverse right towards the crack of ...One for All and just before reaching it, head up to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Best slab climbs of the UK , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Shorn Cliff Nose , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Organ Grinder
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)