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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Wall climbing at its best. Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Head up past a small thread at 3m to a peg at a tiny overlap (thread out to the left). Make tough moves to pass a slight bulge and once above it, go right to a groove and climb it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye Valley must do , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , 2023 , Road to lundy

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User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 9 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It\'s worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 126
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 122
Votes cast 123
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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