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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A committing, high quality pitch that takes on the central line of the buttress. Begin under a red crack. The initial overhang has lost some rock but this has not altered the grade. Move up to the rock scar and then pull up and then rightwards to a small ledge. Gain the thread above and continue leftwards a short way to a layaway. Move right to and up a shallow depression to a peg. Finish direct on the left to a tree and belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Ultimate E4 ticklist , Soft Touches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fammer | 24 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couple of rugby ball sized blocks sat on a ledge just short of the anchor. I carried one down but couldn't take them all. Go careful. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Couple of rugby ball sized blocks sat on a ledge just short of the anchor. I carried one down but couldn't take them all. Go careful. |
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| powelli | 16 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Based on the photodiagram supplement from CC it looks like a block has fallen off around the left hand end of the overhang at the start relatively recently (there\'s still a few reddish flakes clinging on in it\'s place). That would make sense as the \"good breaks\" referenced in the guidebook description don\'t quite seem to match the route - however we did find an alternative while staying left. https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/lower-wye-valley-photodiagram-supplement/ The thread looks like it\'s fairly new cord, but currently tied with 2x overhand. That may be fine, just unsure as most others I\'ve encountered have used a double fisherman\'s. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Based on the photodiagram supplement from CC it looks like a block has fallen off around the left hand end of the overhang at the start relatively recently (there's still a few reddish flakes clinging on in it's place). That would make sense as the "good breaks" referenced in the guidebook description don't quite seem to match the route - however we did find an alternative while staying left. https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/lower-wye-valley-photodiagram-supplement/ The thread looks like it's fairly new cord, but currently tied with 2x overhand. That may be fine, just unsure as most others I've encountered have used a double fisherman's. |
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| hutchay | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Soft but scary. You can get a size 1 nut in a move after the thread right before the crux move. Peg looks rusty and no gear above it. Tried it years ago and slipped off moments after clipping the peg just cause I lost concentration, nice to correct the error. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Soft but scary. You can get a size 1 nut in a move after the thread right before the crux move. Peg looks rusty and no gear above it. Tried it years ago and slipped off moments after clipping the peg just cause I lost concentration, nice to correct the error. |
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| spidey | 1 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing, mostly positive holds, tat looks in good nick but can be backed up with size 2 or 3 nut. Findinv the correct hold after peg would make it easier. Lower off now has additional rope tat back up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great climbing, mostly positive holds, tat looks in good nick but can be backed up with size 2 or 3 nut. Findinv the correct hold after peg would make it easier. Lower off now has additional rope tat back up. |
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| simes303 | 1991 |
Show βeta
βeta: No way was this E4 when I did it but maybe the route has changed. E3 5c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No way was this E4 when I did it but maybe the route has changed. E3 5c. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Hyena Cage
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)