Restricted Access

Part of the crag falls within the fall of shot zone for the rifle rage below the crag run by Lydgate Rifle & Pistol Club and frequently used by Police firearms units, so it is very important that all visiting climbers understand the access agreement for their own safety:

  • From The Rostrum rightwards inclusive, falls outside of the fall of shot zone and is on Open Access land, meaning there is free and open access to this part of the crag at all times.
  • Left of The Rostrum is the fall of shot zone from the rifle range below where large calibre firearms are frequently used. For safety reasons, access is only allowed to this part of the crag (and Deer Hill Moss behind) on Friday after 6pm year round when shooting should not be happening.
  • With that said, if red flags are flying on a Friday evening, don't chance it and stray into the fall of shot zone. Likewise, shooting can take place at any time during the day, so just because shooting isn't happening when you turn up, don't be tempted to use the left side of the crag on other days.
20m.

Rockfax Description
20m. Classic. The cracks splitting the centre of the wall are reached up a shallow groove, with runners to the left. At its top, step left and blast the fine jamming cracks. © Rockfax

FA. John Strangler 1970.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

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User Date Notes
PaulJepson 13 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very green and slippery in places at the moment.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very green and slippery in places at the moment.
Cake 15 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Simply brilliant. Matt gave out a good clean, so should be in good nick for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply brilliant. Matt gave out a good clean, so should be in good nick for a while.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 32
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 40
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Noonday Ridge

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Caley Crags)

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