Rockfax Description
Climb up to and then tackle the steep flake (not easy to protect) by sustained climbing until it is possible to mantelshelf onto a good ledge. Finish up the groove behind and wonder where the left wall of the one-time chimney went to! © Rockfax
FA. Arthur Birtwistle 1940s.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Oliver Johnson2000 | 10 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The finger-crack at the bottom is trickier than a ‘Severe’ but there are plenty of holds on the flake until the (2nd) ledge. Above the ledge is the crux which helps if you have a decent reach (I’m 6ft 2in). Lots of room on the stance however is grassed over and sloping. To protect the retreat from the stance, I strongly suggest placing a hex in a crack above the stance, clip a loose sling into it whilst dismantling the anchor and scramble off. MIND THE BIG HOLE TO THE LEFT! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The finger-crack at the bottom is trickier than a ‘Severe’ but there are plenty of holds on the flake until the (2nd) ledge. Above the ledge is the crux which helps if you have a decent reach (I’m 6ft 2in). Lots of room on the stance however is grassed over and sloping. To protect the retreat from the stance, I strongly suggest placing a hex in a crack above the stance, clip a loose sling into it whilst dismantling the anchor and scramble off. MIND THE BIG HOLE TO THE LEFT! |
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Simon Caldwell | 11 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Much harder if you're wearing a helmet! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much harder if you're wearing a helmet! |
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Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)