UKH
125m, 4 pitches. Park at week parking spot just below switchbacks on road. Climb can be seen from road (5 min walk in!), first pitch is up the easy rock below the climb proper. Head left up crack/ramp at start of first pitch. Interest on first pitch dwindles after those first few moves. Quite bold at the start. 2nd (crux) pitch starts at the ledge, which can be traversed into if avoiding first pitch. Follow the crack up, then traverse left to belay stance. Fairly good gear. Committing 4a/4b move at start of 3rd pitch on good gear. Straightforward after that. 4th pitch starts at ledge, go straight up. Poss to link 3&4, but scope for good belay at top is poor. Better gear for belay at top of pitch 3.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Far Northwest , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Easter 2012 , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Rock , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , 50 Top Scottish VS's , Scotland dreamin , Rope Solo , Scotland , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 26 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fab, high quality trad route. We dodged the first pitch thinking it looked scrappy, but the final two were worth the boggy stomp up. Slightly unusual and awkward moves (but that's sandstone for ya), and not exactly over protected, but all rendered more manageable by the fixed abseil to the left looking in (static rope and huge ring) back to the mid rake.
Show beta
βeta: Fab, high quality trad route. We dodged the first pitch thinking it looked scrappy, but the final two were worth the boggy stomp up. Slightly unusual and awkward moves (but that's sandstone for ya), and not exactly over protected, but all rendered more manageable by the fixed abseil to the left looking in (static rope and huge ring) back to the mid rake.

Logged Ascents

455 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Sgurr a' Chaorachain

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) Cover
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)
Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Kevin Howett
Scottish Rock Volume 2: North Cover
Scottish Rock Volume 2: North (2020)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Scottish Rock - North Cover
Scottish Rock - North (2009)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Guidebook correction for this climb
162 users have this on their wishlist

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High HS
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Votes cast 64
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
May Crack (Summer)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)

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