Rockfax Description
The prominent arete offers one of Sella's best known climbs. The grades suggested for the pitches seem to vary. The start (the crux) is extremely polished, the rest less so. A good intro to multi-pitch climbing.1) 5, 16m. Hard moves over a bulge, then trend left to ledges.2) 4+, 20m. Continue to another stance.3) 5 (VS), 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge (3 bolts). Pull over this then use the lower-off on the left or continue to the top using a few easy-to-place wires.Descent - Make two abseils down the line. Alternatively, walk right along the ridge to reach the Ojo de Odra cave from behind © Rockfax
Ticklists
Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Costa Blanca 2022
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JSudd | 2 Apr |
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βeta: A few wires eliminates the runout at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: A few wires eliminates the runout at the top |
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| Jo Shelmerdine | 7 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: Very polished, especially at the bottom! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very polished, especially at the bottom! |
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| KarolS | 3 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: Hard start. Lose rock next to first stance | ||
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βeta: Hard start. Lose rock next to first stance |
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| JimOakleyAdventures | 6 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: A clip stick aids the polish potential fall for the first two bolts Did two pitches on an 80m no problem | βeta? | |
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βeta: A clip stick aids the polish potential fall for the first two bolts Did two pitches on an 80m no problem |
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| Pete_Frost | 26 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: First pitch has been polished to a fine sheen, then buffed to perfection. Top pitch is bolted to 2/3rds height. Used a couple of wires after that. All belays are bolted, but not on big ledges. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch has been polished to a fine sheen, then buffed to perfection. Top pitch is bolted to 2/3rds height. Used a couple of wires after that. All belays are bolted, but not on big ledges. |
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| Olly P | 29 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Three abseils from top chain on a single 60m rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Three abseils from top chain on a single 60m rope. |
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| Daveyc86 | 19 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: You can actually walk / scramble off this route instead of abseiling off what is now a very old and rusted piton on the arch abseil route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You can actually walk / scramble off this route instead of abseiling off what is now a very old and rusted piton on the arch abseil route. |
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| Graham at Aston | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier. |
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| Andy Emms | 3 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion. |
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| Gripped | 5 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me. |
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| derekm | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground. |
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| Ewan | 17 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it. Just to add my two pennys worth, I reckon the grades go 5, 5, 5+ | βeta? | |
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βeta: The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it. Just to add my two pennys worth, I reckon the grades go 5, 5, 5+ |
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| Simon Caldwell | 3 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+ | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+ |
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