265m, 10 pitches.
Follows the obvious ridgeline up the south face of the central buttress on Safinah.
Ticklists
Top 10 VS/HVS Routes in Tafraout , Climb Tafraout | 100 Classic Climbs , Tafraout and Anti Atlas Mid Grade Multi Pitch , Anti-Atlas class
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 29 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but all in the last 5 pitches. Started round to the left, up a nice slab, VS 4b, quite bold. Then 3 pitches of scrambling up the ridge, with all the pitches significantly shorter than the SB guidebook suggested, esp. 60m p.4 which is actually closer to 30m. P.5 good HS 4a up right of cactus gully to a scoop, then left to a ledge, then up and right again to ascend vague rib on good holds. p.6. Well protected through the overhang, on good jams. HVS 5a in Cumbria, VS 5a in the Peak and HS 4c in tight Yorkshire. Slab above is only 4a. p.7 Chimney: escape it almost immediately and climb left wall to rejoin chimney in scoop, then take left at junction to finish via steepish gap through blocks. HS 4a. p.8 ramp is S 4a: careful of cactuses! p.9 and 10 can be run together into a mega pitch that is only 35 to 40m long, not the 60m claimed in SB guidebook. Start up the wall above the big boulder and then move out right. Some gear around the arete. At the break/ledge, move left to a weakness and climb steeply up suspect and dirty rock, with many cacti. Really good, felt HVS 4c, due to questy nature, but an experienced VS leader would be fine. You'll do well not to leave your bag at the base, as it's a bit of pain having to head back up to retrieve it, especially if dark. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, but all in the last 5 pitches. Started round to the left, up a nice slab, VS 4b, quite bold. Then 3 pitches of scrambling up the ridge, with all the pitches significantly shorter than the SB guidebook suggested, esp. 60m p.4 which is actually closer to 30m. P.5 good HS 4a up right of cactus gully to a scoop, then left to a ledge, then up and right again to ascend vague rib on good holds. p.6. Well protected through the overhang, on good jams. HVS 5a in Cumbria, VS 5a in the Peak and HS 4c in tight Yorkshire. Slab above is only 4a. p.7 Chimney: escape it almost immediately and climb left wall to rejoin chimney in scoop, then take left at junction to finish via steepish gap through blocks. HS 4a. p.8 ramp is S 4a: careful of cactuses! p.9 and 10 can be run together into a mega pitch that is only 35 to 40m long, not the 60m claimed in SB guidebook. Start up the wall above the big boulder and then move out right. Some gear around the arete. At the break/ledge, move left to a weakness and climb steeply up suspect and dirty rock, with many cacti. Really good, felt HVS 4c, due to questy nature, but an experienced VS leader would be fine. You'll do well not to leave your bag at the base, as it's a bit of pain having to head back up to retrieve it, especially if dark. |
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| Apredicamentofpangolins | 27 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Beware, there's a big loose block at the perched block belay point at the start of the final pitch (it may still have a green wallnut in the crack to the right of it). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Beware, there's a big loose block at the perched block belay point at the start of the final pitch (it may still have a green wallnut in the crack to the right of it). |
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| Guy Baker | 30 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a massive loose block near the belay by the 'perched block' - tempting to place gear, but avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a massive loose block near the belay by the 'perched block' - tempting to place gear, but avoid. |
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Route of Interest
Vanishing Point
Grade: VS 4c ***
(The White Dome)