Restricted Access

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

56m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 25m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , 2020/21 Trips , 33 By 33 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , 2024 Ticklist , Pembs Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Wow! Staring up the second pitch cracks and what looks like the incredibly steep grove above, you wonder if you’ve got the route description right? But it goes, and is the most outrageous fantastic VS pitch anywhere! A scary lead for any VS leader but so worth it. First pitch from high tide belay was quite bold, up a rockfall scar, before disappearing around to the right onto the sharp juggy wall. Again, must be quite intimidating for a VS leader.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wow! Staring up the second pitch cracks and what looks like the incredibly steep grove above, you wonder if you’ve got the route description right? But it goes, and is the most outrageous fantastic VS pitch anywhere! A scary lead for any VS leader but so worth it. First pitch from high tide belay was quite bold, up a rockfall scar, before disappearing around to the right onto the sharp juggy wall. Again, must be quite intimidating for a VS leader.
Siongethinhill 25 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove.
eldre070 21 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon.
Show beta
βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon.
neuromancer 25 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58?
Alun 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Show beta
βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Furzy Sleight 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
Haggis 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
Furzy Sleight 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype
shaun walby 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
john horscroft 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.

Logged Ascents

1400 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Saddle Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 436 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 163
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 159
Votes cast 164
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lydstep Traverse

Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

Loading Notifications...