UKH

Access Banned

BMC ACCESS ARRANGEMENT

Please note. The rocks are located in private, commercial woodland where there has been antisocial behaviour over many years. Access was banned and the following has been agreed on a temporary and trial basis with the landowner.  BMC have agreed to indemnify the landowner (for climbing by BMC members) who has legitimate concerns about opening access onto private land.  Failure to follow these arrangements is likely to result in access being removed.

  • Access is for a trial period of 6 months
  • Only BMC members are covered under the arrangement
  • Climbing is restricted – Monday to Friday only – no weekend climbing.
  • Anyone visiting the rocks should respect the environment and behave responsibly. Please keep climbing low-key
  • No large groups
  • No litter – it would be helpful if climbers bag any litter they find and take it away
  • Keep noise to a minimum.
  • No dogs
  • No Lamping sessions
  • Use the agreed access route(s)

 

Please Note

The BMC Yorkshire Area have agreed run regular crag clean-ups and to monitor access on behalf of the landowner.

If you plan to visit please send a text indicating your intention to do so to the local BMC Access Rep – Mick Johnson -07759 427737

 

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 09/10/2017  
Updated by UKC: 23rd April, 2021 9:15

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Sitting start under the roof on the right (on the outside-side of the ravine); right to left rising traverse along sloping hand rails. Historically started from the back-right of the cave but this start may now be defunct since the excavation of the ravine. Can be finished by pulling onto a block at the far left or, a little harder and much better, finishing up Piranesi.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will Hunt 6 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky figuring out the history of this. The floor of the cave used to be flat, without the excavated ravine. This makes it very hard to do the original start, coming out from the back on flatties (some holds maybe now broken? V hard not to dab on platform over the ravine). More logical modern start would be on the break under the roof at its right-hand end. Has been finished by stepping off onto boulder at far left and may have been topped out in the past. Finishing as for Piranesi adds a bit to the high 6/v low 7 basic traverse from the modern start. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky figuring out the history of this. The floor of the cave used to be flat, without the excavated ravine. This makes it very hard to do the original start, coming out from the back on flatties (some holds maybe now broken? V hard not to dab on platform over the ravine). More logical modern start would be on the break under the roof at its right-hand end. Has been finished by stepping off onto boulder at far left and may have been topped out in the past. Finishing as for Piranesi adds a bit to the high 6/v low 7 basic traverse from the modern start.

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High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
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Route of Interest
Redemption

Grade: f7A ***
(Impossible wall)

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