Rockfax Description
A mini-expedition, devious with some excellent climbing.
1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance.
2) 5b, 18m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a possible small stance (4b to here). Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping - tiny wires) to the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Days of the Week , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daniel Grout | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Did all "3" pitches in 1, didn't have any small kit with me, for an all round wandering and engaging outing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did all "3" pitches in 1, didn't have any small kit with me, for an all round wandering and engaging outing. |
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| TonyM | 4 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Good route. Best done in three mini-pitches. Rockfax description does omit to say that 3rd pitch is a 12m 5b. Both 1st & 3rd pitches are bold - the former with a hard final move, protected only by a small RP; the latter on pockets and rounded bulges. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route. Best done in three mini-pitches. Rockfax description does omit to say that 3rd pitch is a 12m 5b. Both 1st & 3rd pitches are bold - the former with a hard final move, protected only by a small RP; the latter on pockets and rounded bulges. |
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| UKB Shark | 14 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Definite typo no doubt arisng from the 3 pitch description where the middle pitch is 4b and top pitch is 5b. There is a nervy move to reach and use the hand rail at the top of the first pitch with only rp type protection. Top pitch a bit contrived but still good. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definite typo no doubt arisng from the 3 pitch description where the middle pitch is 4b and top pitch is 5b. There is a nervy move to reach and use the hand rail at the top of the first pitch with only rp type protection. Top pitch a bit contrived but still good. |
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| Mick Ward | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: As I recall, the top bit is 5b - and scary with it. Steadiness required. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As I recall, the top bit is 5b - and scary with it. Steadiness required. |
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| daveagriff | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Not climbed this, but acording to other guides (which split it into 3 pitches) the top bit is 5b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not climbed this, but acording to other guides (which split it into 3 pitches) the top bit is 5b. |
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| mark s | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: good hold over the first small roof and a nice rock over,its all but done then | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: good hold over the first small roof and a nice rock over,its all but done then |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Jewel of Corruption
Grade: E2 5b ***
(The Hanging Stone)