Rockfax Description
A classic of considerable antiquity.
1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished and awkward to protect) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. The wide bit is avoidable to the right at a lower grade.
2) 6m. Move left then right to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c). © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Roaches VDiff's , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , The Roaches - The First Ten , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AdrianFagg | 31 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: On a damp morning at Easter, the very last move was very slippery indeed, although fortunately well-protected. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: On a damp morning at Easter, the very last move was very slippery indeed, although fortunately well-protected. |
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| victim of mathematics | 21 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is great, though a little stiff for VDiff in places (great gear makes up for it though). The second pitch up the left of the wall behind the belay ledge is not VDiff, at least Severe if not HS surely, though it is only little. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is great, though a little stiff for VDiff in places (great gear makes up for it though). The second pitch up the left of the wall behind the belay ledge is not VDiff, at least Severe if not HS surely, though it is only little. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 24 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what could be added to the description, unless Jonathan meant the last (5a) section - does this go up the right or the left of the final wall? I suspect the answer is 'either'. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure what could be added to the description, unless Jonathan meant the last (5a) section - does this go up the right or the left of the final wall? I suspect the answer is 'either'. |
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| Dan_S | 22 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty reasonable description considering the route. Tricky moves in the middle to get out of the wide chimney into the narrower upper section. Fun route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty reasonable description considering the route. Tricky moves in the middle to get out of the wide chimney into the narrower upper section. Fun route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Boomerang
Grade: VD ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)