Rockfax Description
A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Roaches HVS Challenge , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peaky
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mb_manchester | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd be happy with E1 grade - purely on the exposure front. going through the crack is tricky and if you start panicking pass it, then you are likely to have a very emotional experience in deed. if you don't take the right gear to protect the big gap, then you are potentially looking at a very exposed traverse. the upper section is easy but going around the corner with the rope isn't easy either. that said, it is probably as hard (physically) as The Sloth but mentally (with or without the right gear) probably above HVS | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'd be happy with E1 grade - purely on the exposure front. going through the crack is tricky and if you start panicking pass it, then you are likely to have a very emotional experience in deed. if you don't take the right gear to protect the big gap, then you are potentially looking at a very exposed traverse. the upper section is easy but going around the corner with the rope isn't easy either. that said, it is probably as hard (physically) as The Sloth but mentally (with or without the right gear) probably above HVS |
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| Smelly Fox | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch! |
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| daveagriff | 14 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly |
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| UKB Shark | 25 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go? |
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| mark s | 1 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier
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The Mincer
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)