20m.
Rockfax Description
Climb the short steep wall (bouldery) to a rest below the bulges then move rightwards to the shrubby gully. Up this to a traverse out left leading to a short finger and hand crack. Sadly, despite some nice moves after the start, the rest of the route is only about Severe and the line leaves a lot to desired. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Morgan's List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Souljah | 13 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: A suprisingly tricky start,once in the groove theres a nice step round the bulge with your left hand on a crimpy edge, then into a low crack that rises diagonaly up the wall into a disapointing gully (that ruins the route) Basicly its all over once youve stepped round the bulge! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A suprisingly tricky start,once in the groove theres a nice step round the bulge with your left hand on a crimpy edge, then into a low crack that rises diagonaly up the wall into a disapointing gully (that ruins the route) Basicly its all over once youve stepped round the bulge! |
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| shaun walby | 15 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Getting off the floor and established on the lip is a tad tricky. The route as a whole is well worth getting your head around the start. Great route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting off the floor and established on the lip is a tad tricky. The route as a whole is well worth getting your head around the start. Great route. |
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| chopkins | 22 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Ive heard of grade drift but this is ridiculous. In 1970 this was a classic "sandbagging" Hard Severe route. There was a pinch hold under the roof at the start which allowed you to pull up and to the left. Miss this hold and I agree it would be difficult. I wonder if it has "fallen off" or are people still missing it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Ive heard of grade drift but this is ridiculous. In 1970 this was a classic "sandbagging" Hard Severe route. There was a pinch hold under the roof at the start which allowed you to pull up and to the left. Miss this hold and I agree it would be difficult. I wonder if it has "fallen off" or are people still missing it. |
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| FedUp | 19 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: HVS 5b. VS 5b if you can reach high enough to place a runner before starting. Think about doing the starting moves high on a route and it's obviously 5b and not 5a IMO. | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS 5b. VS 5b if you can reach high enough to place a runner before starting. Think about doing the starting moves high on a route and it's obviously 5b and not 5a IMO. |
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| r0b | 26 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: I'd say 5a to get hands on the low ledge then maybe 5b (at least hard 5a) to get stood on top of it. This bit would stop a lot of leaders working up through the VS's so the grade should be easy HVS I think, | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd say 5a to get hands on the low ledge then maybe 5b (at least hard 5a) to get stood on top of it. This bit would stop a lot of leaders working up through the VS's so the grade should be easy HVS I think, |
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| Paul Boardman | 7 Nov, 2002 |
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βeta: I agree with Rosemary. I thought there were a couple of difficult moves at the start. First getting off the ground and then getting establied on the low ledge. Felt like HVS 5a to me, though the rest is quite easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree with Rosemary. I thought there were a couple of difficult moves at the start. First getting off the ground and then getting establied on the low ledge. Felt like HVS 5a to me, though the rest is quite easy. |
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| Rock Fairy | 20 Oct, 2002 |
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βeta: First 15 feet has several 5a/5b moves, but the good gear & easy final section make a good VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: First 15 feet has several 5a/5b moves, but the good gear & easy final section make a good VS |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: I fell of the start and was glad there was a bouldering mat! Many might not have one. HVS 5b sounds more like it for a pure matless ascent. The rest of the route is straightforward and of a an entirely different character. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I fell of the start and was glad there was a bouldering mat! Many might not have one. HVS 5b sounds more like it for a pure matless ascent. The rest of the route is straightforward and of a an entirely different character. |
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| mozzer | 14 Mar, 2002 |
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βeta: This has to be VS 5a. Totally agree with Jonathan Prager. It sure as hell isnt 4c, the first bit! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This has to be VS 5a. Totally agree with Jonathan Prager. It sure as hell isnt 4c, the first bit! |
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Route of Interest
Valkyrie
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)