14m.
Rockfax Description
The slab has thin unprotected moves to pass the overlap. It is often climbed with a side runner (E1 to HVS depending where you put it). Arguments about the grade rage on - just to clarify, it is worth E3 for an onsight ascent without a side runner. Often dirty from the top-roping/abseiling hordes' muddy boots. © Rockfax
FA. Ian Johnson 1977.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Michael Hood | 29 Jan |
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βeta: If you go for a side runner on the left, get your belayer to stand well over to the left. Reduces the chances of you "arguing" with the rope if you come off and (inevitably) swing left. | ||
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βeta: If you go for a side runner on the left, get your belayer to stand well over to the left. Reduces the chances of you "arguing" with the rope if you come off and (inevitably) swing left. |
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| Gary Gibson | 27 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Named when Ian’hodshot Johnson dropped his chalk bag and it’s contents | βeta? | |
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βeta: Named when Ian’hodshot Johnson dropped his chalk bag and it’s contents |
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| alasdair19 | 21 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: With Liz very confident day | βeta? | |
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βeta: With Liz very confident day |
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| mb_manchester | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: tried it on top-rope first. second go on lead - although not sure what the point of a rope is here, to be honest. falling/sliding off the upper section guarantees decking. that said, the friction is great and calm head gets you all the way to the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: tried it on top-rope first. second go on lead - although not sure what the point of a rope is here, to be honest. falling/sliding off the upper section guarantees decking. that said, the friction is great and calm head gets you all the way to the top. |
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| Fiend | 8 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Shut up simes. If you think that top-roping this shouldn't be discouraged then you might as well give up climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Shut up simes. If you think that top-roping this shouldn't be discouraged then you might as well give up climbing. |
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| Steve Banham | 18 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: An E2 5b, with the side runner low in the crack to the left. E1 5c implies a safe route, which it isn't. Potential to face-plant the ground/swing into something hard from the final moves even with the low side runner. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An E2 5b, with the side runner low in the crack to the left. E1 5c implies a safe route, which it isn't. Potential to face-plant the ground/swing into something hard from the final moves even with the low side runner. |
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| Andrew Barker | 9 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route! Onsighted it and felt quite nervous on the crux moves even though the gear wasn't too far below. Above that it eases and becomes enjoyable. The grade? Hmmm, before I did it I thought it would be E3, now I'd say E4 cos it makes me sound better! But seriously, I'm not sure - 4 Pebble Slab is E3 5c but I trusted the gear on it far less than on Chalkstorm. I'd say soft E4. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route! Onsighted it and felt quite nervous on the crux moves even though the gear wasn't too far below. Above that it eases and becomes enjoyable. The grade? Hmmm, before I did it I thought it would be E3, now I'd say E4 cos it makes me sound better! But seriously, I'm not sure - 4 Pebble Slab is E3 5c but I trusted the gear on it far less than on Chalkstorm. I'd say soft E4. |
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| Sam Doyle | 7 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: An excellent route with nice moves. Led it with a high side runner on the left - still felt harder than HVS. Similar to Three Pebble Slab in everything including the controversy over the grade. Probably E1/E2 with a siderunner and E3/E4 without. Definetly 5c at times. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An excellent route with nice moves. Led it with a high side runner on the left - still felt harder than HVS. Similar to Three Pebble Slab in everything including the controversy over the grade. Probably E1/E2 with a siderunner and E3/E4 without. Definetly 5c at times. |
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| ial103 | 17 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: hello yes, was leading this the other day, had just got above the crux and was feeling slightly as though i might mess myself when all of a sudden a hoard of small children with an instructor appeared and started watching, this was all well and good till the instructor started loudly telling the kids about how my gear was so low down and what would happen if i fell off...i really appriciated it at the time and definitly didnt want to shout abuse at him... great route though :D | βeta? | |
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βeta: hello yes, was leading this the other day, had just got above the crux and was feeling slightly as though i might mess myself when all of a sudden a hoard of small children with an instructor appeared and started watching, this was all well and good till the instructor started loudly telling the kids about how my gear was so low down and what would happen if i fell off...i really appriciated it at the time and definitly didnt want to shout abuse at him... great route though :D |
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| Sean_J | 15 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Found this easier and less scary than Elegy; surely Chalkstorm is only E2, even for an onsight? The top slab is OK if the conditions are good; if you can get up to the groove OK then you'll be fine on the top slab. I reckon it's only E2. While i'm at it, I also reckon side runners don't make it that much easier, unless they're so high up that you're effectively on top-rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found this easier and less scary than Elegy; surely Chalkstorm is only E2, even for an onsight? The top slab is OK if the conditions are good; if you can get up to the groove OK then you'll be fine on the top slab. I reckon it's only E2. While i'm at it, I also reckon side runners don't make it that much easier, unless they're so high up that you're effectively on top-rope. |
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| Ropeboy | 2 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Steady E4 if lead with runners in the break below the overlap solid E4 for the solo, on-sight for both ways obviously. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Steady E4 if lead with runners in the break below the overlap solid E4 for the solo, on-sight for both ways obviously. |
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| Duncan I | 4 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Standing at the break and placing a side-runner (or two) at full stretch, it's no more dangerous than, say, Impossible Slab. I'd give it E2 5c for an on-sight. The slab is quite sustained for a few moves so soft E4 is probably right if you just use the break for a runner. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Standing at the break and placing a side-runner (or two) at full stretch, it's no more dangerous than, say, Impossible Slab. I'd give it E2 5c for an on-sight. The slab is quite sustained for a few moves so soft E4 is probably right if you just use the break for a runner. |
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| Andy Hobson | 8 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: Soft E4 for an onsight. I stacked a load of gear in the crack at the break which makes the crux move reasonably safe (you probably won't deck). Runners in the cracky flakey thing are rubbish, if you think you'll fall off the next bit get a fast belayer. The rest is superb 5b friction climbing, quite intense and hugely enjoyable (in retrospect). If you do it when it's cold it would be impossible to fall off without jumping, the friction is awesome! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Soft E4 for an onsight. I stacked a load of gear in the crack at the break which makes the crux move reasonably safe (you probably won't deck). Runners in the cracky flakey thing are rubbish, if you think you'll fall off the next bit get a fast belayer. The rest is superb 5b friction climbing, quite intense and hugely enjoyable (in retrospect). If you do it when it's cold it would be impossible to fall off without jumping, the friction is awesome! |
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| FedUp | 19 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: I got a good RP in at the overlap. I believe it's now an alien that fits better. Deffo 5c but sill E4 without the side runners as this single piece is your one and only and it's a thin precarious route. Surely it's safer to slightly over grade than sandbag someone who gets hurt? It's fine if you toprope to oblivion but aren't we supposed to be grading for an on sight lead. E4 5c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I got a good RP in at the overlap. I believe it's now an alien that fits better. Deffo 5c but sill E4 without the side runners as this single piece is your one and only and it's a thin precarious route. Surely it's safer to slightly over grade than sandbag someone who gets hurt? It's fine if you toprope to oblivion but aren't we supposed to be grading for an on sight lead. E4 5c. |
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| Richard Bradley | 26 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Did it on top rope (sorry). Found the overlap crux hard to sus, but it's a superb route. Obviously not allowed to comment on the grade! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did it on top rope (sorry). Found the overlap crux hard to sus, but it's a superb route. Obviously not allowed to comment on the grade! |
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| JR | 16 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: I onsighted it and would say E4 for the onsight, though low in the grade. Possibly hard E3. Once done on toprope probably about E1. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I onsighted it and would say E4 for the onsight, though low in the grade. Possibly hard E3. Once done on toprope probably about E1. |
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| Paz | 14 Oct, 2002 |
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βeta: Agreed. It feels like E4 when you're doing it, afterwards obviously it felt easier. Also agree that Elegy is both E2 and harder. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed. It feels like E4 when you're doing it, afterwards obviously it felt easier. Also agree that Elegy is both E2 and harder. |
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| EarlyBird | 16 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: It's not necessarily death if you fall...mate of mine slid the entire length of the climb to the accompanying smell of burning rubber, only damage he received was a "waxed" chest courtesy of the midpoint bulge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's not necessarily death if you fall...mate of mine slid the entire length of the climb to the accompanying smell of burning rubber, only damage he received was a "waxed" chest courtesy of the midpoint bulge. |
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| Chris the Tall | 15 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: Excellant route but only E3 - you have gear by your feet for the 5c move and above that its "only" 5b. E1/2 with a side runner - depending on where you place it | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellant route but only E3 - you have gear by your feet for the 5c move and above that its "only" 5b. E1/2 with a side runner - depending on where you place it |
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| Alex Thurgood | 26 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Brilliant slab climb. When I did it (a long time ago) it was only E2, without side placement, no top rope, just temporary madness, so where did the E4 come from ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant slab climb. When I did it (a long time ago) it was only E2, without side placement, no top rope, just temporary madness, so where did the E4 come from ? |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: One word GORGEOUS!! Slab climbing at its best. Can't wait to have a go at the lead. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One word GORGEOUS!! Slab climbing at its best. Can't wait to have a go at the lead. |
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| mark s | 20 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: if going for the onsight get a mate too clean the mud off the holds left by the toproping outdoor groups | βeta? | |
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βeta: if going for the onsight get a mate too clean the mud off the holds left by the toproping outdoor groups |
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Route of Interest
Hunky Dory
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)