Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown late 1950s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 cracks to Squamish , Thrutch and Clutch , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Proper Cracks UK , Memorable Climbs , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Niamh Gibson 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nest under roof - avoid climbing this for a few weeks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nest under roof - avoid climbing this for a few weeks
Guy Atkinson 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 21 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
Show beta
βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
Fiend 22 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
Ram MkiV 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
Show beta
βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
MeMeMe 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
Jon Greengrass 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
Garan 1 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
Chris Fitzhugh 24 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 100
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Knight's Move

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage North)

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