The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The bold face with hard moves just before it eases. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Mirthin 1976.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Garan | 5 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: The hardest moves are just before the break and gear. If you are 5 foot 4 or shorter there is a hard 6a move moving left onto the arete before being able to reach the break. Unprotected 6a moves 7 metres up, surely E4? Still really enjoyed it though despite my terrified state. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The hardest moves are just before the break and gear. If you are 5 foot 4 or shorter there is a hard 6a move moving left onto the arete before being able to reach the break. Unprotected 6a moves 7 metres up, surely E4? Still really enjoyed it though despite my terrified state. |
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The Pylon King | 5 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: There's good gear for the top moves (5a/5b) and the hardest move (5c) is fairly low down. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There's good gear for the top moves (5a/5b) and the hardest move (5c) is fairly low down. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)