Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
The angular rift is more of groove and is awkward to enter - try laybacking facing right. Once established it eases a little. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Scarlett late 1920s.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
edmundje01 16 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Flake on the left is ripe for coming down, do not use under any circumstance
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake on the left is ripe for coming down, do not use under any circumstance
PaulJepson 14 Feb Show βeta
βeta: After the initial move, go careful because the flake on the left isn't great (flexed when I put a nut behind it) and the gear available in the main crack is a loose block. I equalised a wire and large cam either side of the block to hopefully hold it in place.
Show beta
βeta: After the initial move, go careful because the flake on the left isn't great (flexed when I put a nut behind it) and the gear available in the main crack is a loose block. I equalised a wire and large cam either side of the block to hopefully hold it in place.
laurarjhowe 24 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in the higher crack! Very far back in the crack so luckily didn\'t disturb them at all but they made a lot of noise!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting in the higher crack! Very far back in the crack so luckily didn't disturb them at all but they made a lot of noise!
shaun walby 20 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward to enter the chimney, but i didnt find it poorly protected. VS4c felt about right to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awkward to enter the chimney, but i didnt find it poorly protected. VS4c felt about right to me
Offwidth 28 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Rather poorly protected? The crux layback entry takes goodness knows how many cam sizes! Every sequence above seems easier than the last and all have good pro.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rather poorly protected? The crux layback entry takes goodness knows how many cam sizes! Every sequence above seems easier than the last and all have good pro.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 146
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 132
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Obscenity

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)

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