The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The angular rift is more of groove and is awkward to enter - try laybacking facing right. Once established it eases a little. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Scarlett late 1920s.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
edmundje01 | 16 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Flake on the left is ripe for coming down, do not use under any circumstance | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Flake on the left is ripe for coming down, do not use under any circumstance |
||||
PaulJepson | 14 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: After the initial move, go careful because the flake on the left isn't great (flexed when I put a nut behind it) and the gear available in the main crack is a loose block. I equalised a wire and large cam either side of the block to hopefully hold it in place. | ||
Show beta
βeta: After the initial move, go careful because the flake on the left isn't great (flexed when I put a nut behind it) and the gear available in the main crack is a loose block. I equalised a wire and large cam either side of the block to hopefully hold it in place. |
||||
laurarjhowe | 24 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in the higher crack! Very far back in the crack so luckily didn\'t disturb them at all but they made a lot of noise! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting in the higher crack! Very far back in the crack so luckily didn't disturb them at all but they made a lot of noise! |
||||
shaun walby | 20 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awkward to enter the chimney, but i didnt find it poorly protected. VS4c felt about right to me | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Awkward to enter the chimney, but i didnt find it poorly protected. VS4c felt about right to me |
||||
Offwidth | 28 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rather poorly protected? The crux layback entry takes goodness knows how many cam sizes! Every sequence above seems easier than the last and all have good pro. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rather poorly protected? The crux layback entry takes goodness knows how many cam sizes! Every sequence above seems easier than the last and all have good pro. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)