Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The rib between the chimneys is climbed on rounded holds and is poorly protected where it matters. © Rockfax

FA. Glyn Owen 1955.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , The V.S.+ Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tony Kartawick 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Serious.
Show beta
βeta: Serious.
Iain Thow 21 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy.
βeta?
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βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy.
alj 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree!
βeta?
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βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree!
leon 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks.
βeta?
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βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks.
shaun walby 20 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right
βeta?
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βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right
Offwidth 28 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!).
βeta?
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βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!).
Gripped 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!)
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 144
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Altar Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Rivelin Edge)

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