The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The slab direct on friction. It is delicate and protection is limited. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Baker 1982.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GeorgiePorgie1 | 27 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you would want to claim E1 you defo need to stay right in the middle of the wall which makes this a bit of a eliminate (hence 1 star?). Pinching off a few holds off Left Edge is all too tempting. :) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you would want to claim E1 you defo need to stay right in the middle of the wall which makes this a bit of a eliminate (hence 1 star?). Pinching off a few holds off Left Edge is all too tempting. :) |
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P.Tully | 3 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: softest route on gritstone | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: softest route on gritstone |
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Iain Thow | 21 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Originally led this by accident thinking it was Left Edge, thanks to a missed line (printing error) in the 1983 guide. A small cam in the top break would stop you. I did think the top move was 5a & worth E1 | ||
Show beta
βeta: Originally led this by accident thinking it was Left Edge, thanks to a missed line (printing error) in the 1983 guide. A small cam in the top break would stop you. I did think the top move was 5a & worth E1 |
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Dale Berry | 2 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just about E1 for the runout. The moves aren't to tricky for 5a, but it'd be a long slide down if you came off them. A worthwhile no star route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Just about E1 for the runout. The moves aren't to tricky for 5a, but it'd be a long slide down if you came off them. A worthwhile no star route. |
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Si dH | 6 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you can reach gear without climbing off the line, which you can, then its not off-route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you can reach gear without climbing off the line, which you can, then its not off-route. |
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Mutl3y | 4 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought that it shared gear with the VS next door (which I thought had harder moves than this). Saying that it's off route makes everything a bit contrived. Put some pro in and don't hurt yourself on it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought that it shared gear with the VS next door (which I thought had harder moves than this). Saying that it's off route makes everything a bit contrived. Put some pro in and don't hurt yourself on it. |
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Andrew Barker | 23 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, did it twice in a row! Really pleasant slab, I'd say a soft touch for the grade but I'm a slab climber! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, did it twice in a row! Really pleasant slab, I'd say a soft touch for the grade but I'm a slab climber! |
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Si dH | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c if youre short too, it wasn't reach dependent. Easy-angled smearing and no 5a in sight. Still, a nice route and worth a star or two I reckon. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HVS 4c if youre short too, it wasn't reach dependent. Easy-angled smearing and no 5a in sight. Still, a nice route and worth a star or two I reckon. |
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Matt_b | 5 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Soft E1. HVS 5a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Soft E1. HVS 5a. |
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MeMeMe | 1 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit of an eliminate but quite nice. One delicate move that is easier if you are taller. Has gear - got small cams in towards the left of the two breaks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bit of an eliminate but quite nice. One delicate move that is easier if you are taller. Has gear - got small cams in towards the left of the two breaks. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage North)