Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
The clean-cut corner crack is a VS with attitude. Place gear as high as possible, layback and jam with conviction and try not to pump out before the horizontal break. A 'go for it' approach is a poor idea here. Move right a short distance and belly-flop over the top. A direct exit isn't much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Dick Brown late 1940s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , UK Classic Corners , Do you climb Very Severe? , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Proper Cracks UK , Memorable Climbs , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
evans859 7 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Placed high gear, down climbed, then quickly laybacked to the good breaks. Not very hard for VS, but pumpy and definitely hard if you hang around too long trying to place gear.
Show beta
βeta: Placed high gear, down climbed, then quickly laybacked to the good breaks. Not very hard for VS, but pumpy and definitely hard if you hang around too long trying to place gear.
TimTett 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I\'ve climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I've climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty.
Kirill 6 Apr, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: Finally did it cleanly, finished left. Should be graded HVS 5b in my opinion.
βeta?
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βeta: Finally did it cleanly, finished left. Should be graded HVS 5b in my opinion.
curly8 2 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option!
βeta?
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βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option!
Duz Walker 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead.
βeta?
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βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead.
SecretSquirrel 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static.
βeta?
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βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static.
mat_galvin 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break
βeta?
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βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break
David Simmonite 12 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it.
βeta?
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βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it.
UKB Shark 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A sandbag at VS
βeta?
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βeta: A sandbag at VS
jackie 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads
βeta?
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βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads
Jamie B 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Felt undergraded to me.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt undergraded to me.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 253
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 230
Votes cast 206
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The File

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)

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