Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
S2, 6b+. An amazing route, and one of the best deep water solos in the UK, although it is a bold one being both high and above rocks at the start. Climb up to a jug, level with the start of the faultline. Make a committing reach to gain the faultline and follow it up and right to its apex. Make hard moves to exit from the apex up a crack where the climbing eases. Follow the easiest terrain to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Hard water , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , North Wales DWS , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Another lifelist? , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales isnt just slate apparently
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DeanB | 13 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I suspect I went too far left after reaching the apex of the lip. I will probably do this again, go a little more direct and jump in after for good measure. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I suspect I went too far left after reaching the apex of the lip. I will probably do this again, go a little more direct and jump in after for good measure. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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Television Route
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)