UKH Hills - 'The Red Wall'

35m. The second pitch is one of the best at Glen Clova, tackling the central crack on the red wall above.
Pitch 1 can be started either by a large detached flake (5a) or by a steeper and thinner finger-size flake-crack to the right (5b/c).
1a) 20m 5a. Large detached flake right of Kremlin Control. Gain the grey slab/terrace above, climb a chimney and belay behind some blocks.
1b) 20m 5b/c. To the right of the large detached flake, there is a steep slightly overhanging wall with a short but distinctive finger flake-crack. Climb this to the terrace and belay behind some blocks after the chimney.

2) 20m 5b. Step right and climb the central crack on a great position.

Ticklists

100 Aberdeen North East Classics! , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , North East Outcrops - 3 and 4 star routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Lairig hitlist

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User	Date		Notes
lh177e	21 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Careful when pulling the rope through the ab point - our knot got stuck in a crack just over the lip when we used this ab after doing Zig-Zag. The walk off isn't too bad.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Careful when pulling the rope through the ab point - our knot got stuck in a crack just over the lip when we used this ab after doing Zig-Zag. The walk off isn't too bad.
Beth Moore	23 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Go assuming you\'ll want to lead the 5b version of pitch 1 (which seems harder than 5b) as the 5a version of looks like the pitch of death. A couple of totally detached massive blocks propped up by some very small blocks all of which are suspiciously hollow.
Show beta βeta: Go assuming you'll want to lead the 5b version of pitch 1 (which seems harder than 5b) as the 5a version of looks like the pitch of death. A couple of totally detached massive blocks propped up by some very small blocks all of which are suspiciously hollow.