UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan James on the finishing crack of Mealy Bugs (VS) at Ravensdale. © Nick Brown

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash. Starting to get overgrown, even on the most popular routes.

IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE
Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices. Please check the RAD details below

Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.
Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.

Area is heavily affected by dieback. Be wary of all anchor and abseil trees as many area dead or dying. There is usually a trusty hawthorne which can be used instead.
PaulJepson - 30/Aug/23
The ab point above Tria (old thick rope to a maillon, and backed up with some thinner cord through the maillon) was looking quite old (04/08/07). I had of course forgotten to bring any serious ab tat replacement material, but untied my quite new prussik loop and tied that around the tree and through the maillon as well, so the red cord through the maillon as a back up is new as of August 2020.
TobyA - 05/Aug/20
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Climbs at this crag

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