Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
8m.

Rockfax Description
Short and sharp. Boulder up to the jug then make a desperate move left. Finish more easily up and right to the ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Malcolm Taylor 1989.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Boy 20 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
Mick 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.

Logged Ascents

63 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sworn Enemy

Grade: 8a ***
(Dovedale)

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