Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
10m.

Rockfax Description
Another painful boulder problem start leads to the break and a jug. From here make one more hard pull leftwards to gain the flake-line. The upper wall is comparatively easy. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Pollitt 1987..

Ticklists

Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Lincoln 26 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Get your heal on the jug Adrian. Feels really easy then.
Show beta
βeta: Get your heal on the jug Adrian. Feels really easy then.
Adrian Berry 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Solid 8a now - the move from the jug (which could be gained from the tree) was E4 6b - now feels very hard (7c/7c+) in its own right, hold must have come off as I onsighted this section many years ago, and took about 20 goes to get the move within the last couple of weeks.
Show beta
βeta: Solid 8a now - the move from the jug (which could be gained from the tree) was E4 6b - now feels very hard (7c/7c+) in its own right, hold must have come off as I onsighted this section many years ago, and took about 20 goes to get the move within the last couple of weeks.

Logged Ascents

72 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Bouldered
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unleashing the Wild Physique

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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