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The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The faultless central line of the wall. A difficult start, protected by two pegs, accesses superb wall climbing up the pocketed groove above, with a tricky move past the third peg. There is a lower-off at the top. Brilliant. © Rockfax

FA. John Codling, John Moulding 8.4.84 08/Apr/1984.

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes

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User Date Notes
Rob Kelly 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pegs are looking rather dodgy, especially the second (rusty and bendy). This can be backed up by a decent micro cam but would be very hard to place on lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pegs are looking rather dodgy, especially the second (rusty and bendy). This can be backed up by a decent micro cam but would be very hard to place on lead.
Climber_Bill 12 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hard powerful start around a roof followed by a really technical wall. Great climbing though probably better when less than 25 degrees whilst smearing on water worn limestone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard powerful start around a roof followed by a really technical wall. Great climbing though probably better when less than 25 degrees whilst smearing on water worn limestone.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Another Red Line

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Monk's Buttress)

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