UKC

Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces N

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Ally lowering off the super steep Stiff Upper Lip © Chriswallis2

Crag features

A super-steep cave houses burly, juggy routes for bumpy boys and girls, while tucked away in a series of small concealed zawns are to be found hidden gems - the adventurous sport routes in Dutchman's Zawn shouldn't be missed. There's also a super little Deep Water Solo wall - ideal for first-timers - with short routes above clear splashdowns (and could there be more potential hereabouts?). Finally, this is a delightful spot for swimming, fishing or simply sunbathing on rock platforms by the sea.

Pigeon's Cave, TMS Zawn and Dutchman's Zawn all face north and receive little sun. The DWS routes on the right-hand wall (looking out) of Gateau Zawn get sun from midday, the left-hand DWS wall gets sun from about 4pm. As with the other tidal venues on the Ormes, grease can be a problem on still or humid days, and this is accentuated by the sheltered nature of the main cave and the zawns - a stiff breeze always helps conditions.

Approach notes

Park beneath the overhanging buttress on the left-hand side of the String of Pearls Wall. Go through a gap in the stone wall and follow the path down to a non-tidal rock platform. TMS and Gateau Zawns are hidden below, Pigeon's Cave is around to the left (looking out) and Dutchman's Zawn is 150m along the platform to the right.

Access Advice

Includes the cave area as well the seperate bouldering areas to the west (Porth Helyg)

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 September to 30 April

Reason: Other

Restrictions are in place to protect puping and moulting seals.

The restrictions at Pigeon'sCave  covers pupping and moulting season from 1st September to 30th April. 

Porth yr Helyg beach boulders restrictions are only for pupping  and are in place from  1st September to 1st January. Do not approach from Pigeon's Cave until after April 30th. 

 

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