UKH
3883m. The route starts at the very end of the SSE arête where it faces roughly east. Climb yellow rocks up to a steep wall with a black patch. Climb through this at IV+ and continue up to the ridge. Stay on the ridge all the way along the first half of the route. The second half starts with a large step of reddish orange rock, follow a rising traverse leftwards to a good chimney, pass this at IV and then return to the ridge. Climb the following grey tower on the ridge at V, loads of pegs. head right on a ledge and then follow the crack in the middle of the wall V to the top of the grey tower. From here follow the ridge easily to the summit (some moves of IV)

L.Devies and G.Gervasutti 30/Aug/1935.

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Route of Interest
Rock des Boucs en Train

Grade: TD ***
(Roc Termier)

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