11m.

Rockfax Description
The bold, blunt arete feels big for its size and is suffering from polish. The grade given is for a lead since there is (spaced) gear. It is V5 to the break,..... except for locals! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
V4

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Cheshire/Merseyside *** routes , Best Before 2025

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User Date Notes
Fiend 2 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The start is reasonably tricky (I must confess I watched someone doing it at a time when I hadn't considered doing the route) but easy to work on. Above it's much easier, gear is limited but bomber, and protects a really good series of elegant rock-overs. Get to it.
βeta?
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βeta: E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The start is reasonably tricky (I must confess I watched someone doing it at a time when I hadn't considered doing the route) but easy to work on. Above it's much easier, gear is limited but bomber, and protects a really good series of elegant rock-overs. Get to it.
Will Hunt 12 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the left and reaching onto Cardiac Arete to gain a pocket). Showed him the method Mark Hounslea had showed me and this time instead of foolishly going straight for the break popped up for a two finger pocket. After a couple of trys we had both latched it and made the break. A very special day for him as he had first got on the problem in 2003. After working it for the whole summer and for 3 years he had finally done it within 10 mins of being showed the proper route. Was also the first 6b move that Ive pulled off so was very proud. Nice when things come together.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the left and reaching onto Cardiac Arete to gain a pocket). Showed him the method Mark Hounslea had showed me and this time instead of foolishly going straight for the break popped up for a two finger pocket. After a couple of trys we had both latched it and made the break. A very special day for him as he had first got on the problem in 2003. After working it for the whole summer and for 3 years he had finally done it within 10 mins of being showed the proper route. Was also the first 6b move that Ive pulled off so was very proud. Nice when things come together.
Will Hunt 1 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed. Ive been working it for a little while and the start is rock 'ard. I blame my Scarpa Visions for not being able to utilise the left hand side foothold as you reach for second crescent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed. Ive been working it for a little while and the start is rock 'ard. I blame my Scarpa Visions for not being able to utilise the left hand side foothold as you reach for second crescent.
Pekkie 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The slot mentioned by Andy was exploded by a leader falling onto a shallowly placed friend. An object lesson - if you're going to lead at Pex make sure all gear is well in. On this route better to push on to a Rock 5 in the V feature and a f0 on arete before bomber f1 in top slot.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The slot mentioned by Andy was exploded by a leader falling onto a shallowly placed friend. An object lesson - if you're going to lead at Pex make sure all gear is well in. On this route better to push on to a Rock 5 in the V feature and a f0 on arete before bomber f1 in top slot.
Andy Farnell 11 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The famous slot for your left hand which has been missed on many an attempt has been 'improved' by a well known local.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The famous slot for your left hand which has been missed on many an attempt has been 'improved' by a well known local.
Andy Farnell 10 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Famous and rightly so. The starting footholds are poilished, but there is and easier version without the obvious (and painful) pocket. V4 to the break.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Famous and rightly so. The starting footholds are poilished, but there is and easier version without the obvious (and painful) pocket. V4 to the break.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pex Hill Quarry

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
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Lead
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Redpoint
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Ground Up
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