Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold most of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on boulders at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to two short left-to-right leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Andy Moles | 6 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: There has been a small rockfall at the overlap, in fact it's no longer an overlap at the point you cross it. Still climbs fine but a bit of dubious rock at the scar. Also all pegs are long gone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There has been a small rockfall at the overlap, in fact it's no longer an overlap at the point you cross it. Still climbs fine but a bit of dubious rock at the scar. Also all pegs are long gone. |
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Climber_Bill | 19 Jul, 2008 |
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βeta: An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top! |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Zawn Kellys Area)