180m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.
1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.
1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.
2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.
3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.
4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.
6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.
7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos. © Rockfax

FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop.

Ticklists

Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Costa blanca 2022 , Blocfit Multi in CB

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User Date Notes
cem 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Has anyone else had difficulties trying to work out where this route starts?
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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Triple Direct

Grade: 6a ***
(Mascarat)

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