UKH Hills - 'Penmaen-bach Arete'

150m.

Rockfax Description
This prominent arete begs to be climbed by everyone that passes on the A55 North Wales Expressway, yet it has only relatively recently seen much attention. Its location on the coast means that it can sometimes escape the worst of the mountain weather so it is often worth a look, especially if you are forced into an early retreat. The rock is compact which limits gear placements and there is also some loose rock. As such this route is usually soloed. The initial arete to about half-height is the most difficult.
1) Climb the arete with most of the trickier sections being climbed to the right to reach an overlap/impasse - quite committing in places.
2) Use a delicate rampline to pass the overlap on its left, then regain the arete proper. Continue up to the apex to reach a col where the angle changes.
3) Scuttle to the right to the base of a rib/runnel and climb this more easily to reach broken ground.
4) Head up over heather, scree and rock to the true summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Route: Follow the obvious curving ridge, keeping close to the edge. The situation and views are spectacular. The compact rock is slippery when wet and possibilities for protection are limited. Nevertheless there is an abundance of positive, incut holds and the quality of the rock is surprisingly good, with only a few loose blocks to contend with (particularly on the very edge of the arête).

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , North Wales isnt just slate apparently

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Lloyd Entwistle	27 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Grade 2 with good rock for 'most' of the route. Towards the top the rock is poorer and care needs to be taken. Most difficulties can be avoided.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Grade 2 with good rock for 'most' of the route. Towards the top the rock is poorer and care needs to be taken. Most difficulties can be avoided.
Jim blackford	29 Dec, 2023	Show βeta βeta: It's grade 3 because of the difficulty to protect it if leading + loose rock a danger for inexperienced. Sure there are placements but most scramblers don't have the experience to spot marginal stuff. Sure it feels ( like grade 2 max) if you're competent soloing this but grade needs to be most accurate for those with less experience	βeta?
Show beta βeta: It's grade 3 because of the difficulty to protect it if leading + loose rock a danger for inexperienced. Sure there are placements but most scramblers don't have the experience to spot marginal stuff. Sure it feels ( like grade 2 max) if you're competent soloing this but grade needs to be most accurate for those with less experience
wlloyd	28 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Unsure why UKC has this listed at grade 3. Cicerone guide book lists it as 1+ which seems to agree with the grade voting here.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Unsure why UKC has this listed at grade 3. Cicerone guide book lists it as 1+ which seems to agree with the grade voting here.
rockcat	3 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: A super line and found the rock remarkably solid. Grade 2 methinks. The seriousness can be mitigated by keeping right away from the steep drop on the left.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A super line and found the rock remarkably solid. Grade 2 methinks. The seriousness can be mitigated by keeping right away from the steep drop on the left.
Bulls Crack	22 Apr, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Grade 2 for the awkward higher ramp. Serious. Would be 3 stars but for the rock quality which may be 'surprisingly good' considering but is in fact intrinsically untrustworthy! The book descent description is not q right. Just follow path up then down past first fields to col and shortly afterwards take obvious path down right to woods and top of chalets. It's also not limestone!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Grade 2 for the awkward higher ramp. Serious. Would be 3 stars but for the rock quality which may be 'surprisingly good' considering but is in fact intrinsically untrustworthy! The book descent description is not q right. Just follow path up then down past first fields to col and shortly afterwards take obvious path down right to woods and top of chalets. It's also not limestone!
magicmartin	14 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Great route! Enjoyed after the Vdiff. When approaching from the parking, as you are walking through the woods there will be a split in the path. One up and one down. Take the down and walk through the campsite and put the far end as your pretty much there after you go through the broken gate. If you go up... trust me it’s a nightmare and you will end too high and have to come back or scramble down to the campsite anyway.
Show beta βeta: Great route! Enjoyed after the Vdiff. When approaching from the parking, as you are walking through the woods there will be a split in the path. One up and one down. Take the down and walk through the campsite and put the far end as your pretty much there after you go through the broken gate. If you go up... trust me it’s a nightmare and you will end too high and have to come back or scramble down to the campsite anyway.
Astilath	19 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: There are gear placements but you need to consider loading directions for slings and take small nuts as well as larger ones. Rock is unlike many mountain routes. Its lacking easy to spot placements like big spikes or slots you can chuck slings over or throw chocks in, but the placements are around. Put your trad hat on instead of your scrambling hat when looking for placements.
Show beta βeta: There are gear placements but you need to consider loading directions for slings and take small nuts as well as larger ones. Rock is unlike many mountain routes. Its lacking easy to spot placements like big spikes or slots you can chuck slings over or throw chocks in, but the placements are around. Put your trad hat on instead of your scrambling hat when looking for placements.