UKC

Climbs 54
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces SE

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the first pitch © steve2006

Crag features

Granite sea cliff on the island of St Mary's (Scilly Isles). The head offers some adventurous climbing on mostly clean and sound rock with a great vista over the island of St. Agnes. The headland also has a wealth of underdeveloped boundering amongst the rocks adjacent to the lighthouse and on the surrounding cliffs. 

Worthwhile routes include Excalibur (VS 4c) and Fear of Furnace (E2 5c). 

Many of the routes may well have only seen a handfull of ascent so grades should be treated with caution. 

Approach notes

From the hospital in Hugh Town follow the track southeastwards past Peninnis Farm and through a gate to Peninnis Head Lighthouse. The main crag is situated about 150m to the south west by a few huge granite blocks.

No Access Issues

The Scillies are particularly important for migratory and nesting birds. There are no specific restritions on climbing but please see the CC guidebook for conservation advice.

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Climbs at this crag

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