Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site.
Rockfax Description
The best route on the wall gives hard and fingery climbing. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , North Wales Sport 2016 , Rock cats getting strong , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales isnt just slate apparently
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ed Roome | 8 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: took two attempts, looks straight forward from the ground but many of the holds are shitter than they appear. Good route overall tho very sustained | βeta? | |
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βeta: took two attempts, looks straight forward from the ground but many of the holds are shitter than they appear. Good route overall tho very sustained |
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Tall Gecko Hands | 26 May, 2021 |
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βeta: A fair bit of polish yet still painful on the fingertips | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fair bit of polish yet still painful on the fingertips |
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Fraser kid | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Polished, extremely sharp pile of dud! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished, extremely sharp pile of dud! |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)