1200m.
The highest North Face in the Eastern Alps. Considerable danger from seracs and stonefall; the technically most difficult section (70° ice) is however relatively safe. Speed and an early start are essential.
Hans Ertl, F. Schmid 1931.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| McHeath | 22 Dec, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first half was magnificent climbing. I then had problems with a crampon, and while trying to sort them out while attached to a single ice screw we were narrowly missed by an ice avalanche from a falling serac. We abseiled back down on Abalakovs as the sun was starting to hit the summit seracs, and got back to the glacier just before the second avalanche. A sobering experience and a big disappointment; we should have started 2 hours earlier. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first half was magnificent climbing. I then had problems with a crampon, and while trying to sort them out while attached to a single ice screw we were narrowly missed by an ice avalanche from a falling serac. We abseiled back down on Abalakovs as the sun was starting to hit the summit seracs, and got back to the glacier just before the second avalanche. A sobering experience and a big disappointment; we should have started 2 hours earlier. |
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Route of Interest
Spigolo del Velo
Grade: D+ ***
(Cima della Madonna)