Superb rock ridge from Arben Bivouac hut.

Hoare, Hulton, von Bergen, Moser & Rubi 23/Aug/1874.

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A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes , Alps to do , Alps to do

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User Date Notes
raliadsa skcalbwah 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Train from Geneva to Zermatt on Sat am, walked in to Arben Biwak from Zermatt. Long walk - about 1,700 vertical metres. Reasonable kip in the bivi with 4 teams in total planning to traverse the Arbengrat to Wellenkuppe. We set out 3rd and had a pretty chilled traverse short roping and moving together. Then walked down to Zermatt and caught an afternoon train back to Geneva. Climbing on the ridge was nice. Unfortunately saw someone fall (unroped) from the summit all the way down the north face. Air Zermatt flew in to recover the body and performed multiple rescues from the ridge above of others in the dead climber's group and others presumably too upset to continue with their objectives. A grim site. I am writing this a year after the event but think we took about 3 hrs from bivi to summit and then about 4.5 from summit to Rothornhutte, moving carefully after what we had seen.
Show beta
βeta: Train from Geneva to Zermatt on Sat am, walked in to Arben Biwak from Zermatt. Long walk - about 1,700 vertical metres. Reasonable kip in the bivi with 4 teams in total planning to traverse the Arbengrat to Wellenkuppe. We set out 3rd and had a pretty chilled traverse short roping and moving together. Then walked down to Zermatt and caught an afternoon train back to Geneva. Climbing on the ridge was nice. Unfortunately saw someone fall (unroped) from the summit all the way down the north face. Air Zermatt flew in to recover the body and performed multiple rescues from the ridge above of others in the dead climber's group and others presumably too upset to continue with their objectives. A grim site. I am writing this a year after the event but think we took about 3 hrs from bivi to summit and then about 4.5 from summit to Rothornhutte, moving carefully after what we had seen.

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Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Liskamm East Ridge

Grade: AD ***
(Liskamm)

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