15m.

Rockfax Description
Start by a low overhang and an iron ring on the ground. There is a difficult opening move over the roof. The wall above is still tricky. It may be a poor relation to its Swanage namesake, but it is not a bad route at all. © Rockfax

FA. B.Slattery 20/Jul/1996.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at Cheyne Wears Area , Portland , Neddyfields Nexus

Feedback

User Date Notes
McHammy 25 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: the 2 big opposing nose flakes at mid height are loose, especially the left. the large juggy rail below the top also super loose. Not a climb recommended at the grade! Take caution with the loose parts. it's possible to avoid them entirely, but only at about 5+ or 6a grade
Show beta
βeta: the 2 big opposing nose flakes at mid height are loose, especially the left. the large juggy rail below the top also super loose. Not a climb recommended at the grade! Take caution with the loose parts. it's possible to avoid them entirely, but only at about 5+ or 6a grade
TommiMorgan 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It's a perfectly OK route....the first move is massive if you're tiny (I'm not but my partner was). There is an option just to traverse from the right to avoid the crazy size of the first move.
βeta?
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βeta: It's a perfectly OK route....the first move is massive if you're tiny (I'm not but my partner was). There is an option just to traverse from the right to avoid the crazy size of the first move.
mwh 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'm just tall enough to reach the good holds and immensely enjoyed hauling myself up with no technique at all with the rope above me :) Starting a metre or so left like my leader did looked a lot more sensible, but less like silly fun.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm just tall enough to reach the good holds and immensely enjoyed hauling myself up with no technique at all with the rope above me :) Starting a metre or so left like my leader did looked a lot more sensible, but less like silly fun.
liam14 29 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First move more like 5+/6a - but only if you are tall and can reach the edge of the ledge - if below 5'6" then it is very much harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First move more like 5+/6a - but only if you are tall and can reach the edge of the ledge - if below 5'6" then it is very much harder.
Ewan 5 Aug, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting first move, otherwise pretty average route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Interesting first move, otherwise pretty average route

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