Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

05/05/2023 - Reports of the kestrel returning to nest have been received. Until this is fully verified, please refrain from climbing the routes 'Mouse Trap', 'Owl and the Antelope', and 'On Jupiter and Mars

 

 

25/05/2022 - We have now confirmed that there is a kestrel nest halfway up the "Owl and the Antelope". Please refrain from climbing routes in this area from April 15th - July 31st to allow the birds to care for their young. 

 

BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act.  Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine"  inclusive.

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good route with a steep finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first of 5 full sports routes in the middle area of the crag. A direct line through 'Ladybird', and the start of 'Relax'. Fingery through the central section (try not to wander off into 'Great Expectations') and with a good finishing roof. Abseil station a few feet back from the top.

Alan Rosier 13/Aug/2007.

Ticklists

Becky's ticklist , Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List , 2023 , South Wales - Road to 7a

Feedback

User Date Notes
kirstymcn 9 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Put up a top rope for m after knackering myself on western front direct. Tough! Very fingery. Took some liberties with hauling on quickdraws but think I did all the moves in the end, piecemeal.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Put up a top rope for m after knackering myself on western front direct. Tough! Very fingery. Took some liberties with hauling on quickdraws but think I did all the moves in the end, piecemeal.
OliverR17 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rock looks a bit flaky around an atypical LO, which also rotates... - worth some caution.
Show beta
βeta: Rock looks a bit flaky around an atypical LO, which also rotates... - worth some caution.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Time For Tee

Grade: 6c ***
(Golf Club crag)

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