This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
Start at the foot of Diedre Sud. Move 3m right then climb the wall for 6m and move up and left across a groove to a small ledge. Climb steeper rock above to a large ledge (possible belay). Follow slabs up right to some cracks. Climb these to finish. © Rockfax
FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble Aug/1967.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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richbull | 15 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: We thought the moves up the wall to gain the ledge on the first pitch reall hard, with small holds and little for the feet. Not 4b as in some guidebooks and maybe 5a+. Our view was echoed by a seasoned local climber. Excellent route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We thought the moves up the wall to gain the ledge on the first pitch reall hard, with small holds and little for the feet. Not 4b as in some guidebooks and maybe 5a+. Our view was echoed by a seasoned local climber. Excellent route. |
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eldre070 | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Danny P1 and Dave P2. Very very nice. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Danny P1 and Dave P2. Very very nice. |
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Furzy Sleight | 14 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Yeah i agree - good route. did this yesterday but didnt move left across the groove near the start. went straight up instead, possibly harder move than the cracks at the top but balances the route up nicely and is a better line | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i agree - good route. did this yesterday but didnt move left across the groove near the start. went straight up instead, possibly harder move than the cracks at the top but balances the route up nicely and is a better line |
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John2 | 7 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Another underrated Pembroke gem. The twin cracks at the top are superb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Another underrated Pembroke gem. The twin cracks at the top are superb. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Strata Walls)