Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A stunning route which makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall. Take a lot of small cams. Start from the ledge on Mother Night. Move out right to a large overhung, sloping ledge. Leave this rightwards into a steep groove which is followed to a good hold on its left-hand side. Pull up into a corner above and follow a crack up right to a roof. Move back leftwards up a crackline then climb the wall above to the top, finishing just left of a block. Around sport 7b. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 18/Jul/1979.
Ticklists
Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Stennis Ford)