Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A pumpy and stylish method of gaining the inner cave. Traverse all the way from the Beat Ledge, to arrive at the very edge of the main cave. Traverse the technical wall on perfect rock, to gain a resting ledge at the start of The Abyss. An accommodating and not-too-high tide will allow you to continue to finally gain the Alien Ledge. © Rockfax
FSA. Adam Wainwright 2003.
DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
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Grade: 7a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)