Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

37m.

Rockfax Description
A superb crack in the wall right of Crithmum which is better now that Crithmum is further away! Climb Crithmum to the base of its upper corner then step up right into the crack. This gives sustained and interesting climbing with one tricky section. A gem! © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 28/May/1987.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 25 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires.
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βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires.
Tall Oak 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Max!
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βeta: Nice one Max!
Legs 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide.
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βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide.
eldre070 21 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much.
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βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much.
Exocet 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
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DNF
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Route of Interest
Chimes of Freedom

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)

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