Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.
2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 07/Apr/1978.

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembroke dreams

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User Date Notes
Gareth H 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very pumpy and sustained first pitch, bomber gear but keeps coming at you, top pitch pumpy E3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very pumpy and sustained first pitch, bomber gear but keeps coming at you, top pitch pumpy E3

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cereal Killer

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Hollow Caves Bay)

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