Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

45m.

Rockfax Description
The line of grooves and cracks between the corner and the cave of Strait Gate. Climb the grooves then move slightly right into the cracks. These lead steeply to a small groove on the right. Move up into a cave then climb the loose gully above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, R.Pearce 30/Aug/1970.

Ticklists

Ultimate HVS ticklist , Orange Spot Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans , Wales Trip - 2022

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User Date Notes
John2 1 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most underrated routes in Pembroke. 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the most underrated routes in Pembroke. 3 stars.
chris wyatt 2 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Like all mother careys routes be prepared to be knackered
βeta?
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βeta: Like all mother careys routes be prepared to be knackered

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High E1
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Votes cast 61
High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 54
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
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Repeated
Redpoint
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Route of Interest
Riders on the Storm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stennis Head)

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