Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
This variation has some independent climbing but its main purpose is to allow the upper section of Alien World to be climbed as a DWS. Traverse the wall into a cave, bridge left and down across the chimney, then move left round the arete; then either make a hard low traverse across the wall (not possible at spring tides) or a slightly higher and marginally easier traverse to gain the Alien ledge. Move up and right on shelving holds to the roof, then take the traverse line diagonally rightwards, to gain the very edge of the cave. Escape can be made out right here, at S1. For the higher and rather more gripping finish, step left and get established on the awkward seat, then pull up through the roof on big holds and traverse left across the lip into the deep finishing corner of One-Eyed Man. © Rockfax
FSA. Julian Lines 01/Sep/2005.
Ticklists
DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Overexposed
Grade: 6c ***
(Stennis Ford)