Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
An absolute classic, taking on the towering corner above the ledge. High in the grade, but very well-protected. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty, then continue on, with more than a little use of the left sidewall, to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 15/Aug/1986.
Ticklists
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Get Some In
Grade: E5 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)