650m, 18 pitches.
Alhambra (6b+, 17 SL, 600 m)
Considered the finest route in the Ticino! Superb, long, fully-bolted route. 11 pitches on a smooth slab, followed by 7 pitches tackling the steep headwall. Ascent time typically 6-8 hours. F6a++ moves obligatory. Stamina essential. Descend with a well-marked path up and L-wards (looking in) passing the pylons by cables and ladders, and then 6x 20m abseils down the Brunone slabs on L. (1.5 hr)
1+2: Inauspicious start between vegetation up the slab (25m+30m, F5a+F5b)
3: Slab (40m, F5c+)
4: Superb, sustained smearing up blank slab (35m, F6b/+).
5: Slab (35m, F5c+)
6: (35m, F6a)
7: (35m, F5c+)
8: Overlaps and L-facing corner (35m, F6a+)
9: Slightly vegetated steeper pitch (43m, F6a)
10: Steep and slippery wall, with tricky moves R to gain handing slab. Well bolted and brilliant moves. Tough (25m, feels more F6c than 6b+, and 6b! in various guides).
11: Tricky groove followed by more delicate steps out R. (45m, F6b+).
[Short walk R-wards, through vegetation to start of Headwall.]
12: Excellent pitch up the "finger-lock slab" (30m, 6a+/b).
13: Soaring, steep and sustained wall pitch. 3* in own right! (40m, 6b+/c).
14: (30m, F5a)
15. Cross small overlap and then delicate traversing up and L on quartz crystal holds. Brilliant (40m, 6b).
16: Short traverse up L-facing ramp (18m, F5b)
17: Face climbing on copious edges. Rather guano covered. Sustained and bold feeling (40m, Harder than F6a given)
18m: (12m 3c) Sign in at ascent book - Bring a new ballpoint pen!
Considered the finest route in the Ticino! Superb, long, fully-bolted route. 11 pitches on a smooth slab, followed by 7 pitches tackling the steep headwall. Ascent time typically 6-8 hours. F6a++ moves obligatory. Stamina essential. Descend with a well-marked path up and L-wards (looking in) passing the pylons by cables and ladders, and then 6x 20m abseils down the Brunone slabs on L. (1.5 hr)
1+2: Inauspicious start between vegetation up the slab (25m+30m, F5a+F5b)
3: Slab (40m, F5c+)
4: Superb, sustained smearing up blank slab (35m, F6b/+).
5: Slab (35m, F5c+)
6: (35m, F6a)
7: (35m, F5c+)
8: Overlaps and L-facing corner (35m, F6a+)
9: Slightly vegetated steeper pitch (43m, F6a)
10: Steep and slippery wall, with tricky moves R to gain handing slab. Well bolted and brilliant moves. Tough (25m, feels more F6c than 6b+, and 6b! in various guides).
11: Tricky groove followed by more delicate steps out R. (45m, F6b+).
[Short walk R-wards, through vegetation to start of Headwall.]
12: Excellent pitch up the "finger-lock slab" (30m, 6a+/b).
13: Soaring, steep and sustained wall pitch. 3* in own right! (40m, 6b+/c).
14: (30m, F5a)
15. Cross small overlap and then delicate traversing up and L on quartz crystal holds. Brilliant (40m, 6b).
16: Short traverse up L-facing ramp (18m, F5b)
17: Face climbing on copious edges. Rather guano covered. Sustained and bold feeling (40m, Harder than F6a given)
18m: (12m 3c) Sign in at ascent book - Bring a new ballpoint pen!
Hans Muller 1997.
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