17m.

Rockfax Description
Another of those gripping square-cut aretes. A couple of hand-placed pegs provide much needed protection. © Rockfax

FA. Neil Foster (solo) 1983.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Neil's New Routes , Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come , The Foster Five

Feedback

User Date Notes
mark20 5 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Checked the gear on a quick ab, then climbed first go from the ground. Apparently it originally climbed on LHS all the way, I just muddled up it any how, mainly on the right. I don't think this is independent enough to be called a different / new route though.
Show beta
βeta: Checked the gear on a quick ab, then climbed first go from the ground. Apparently it originally climbed on LHS all the way, I just muddled up it any how, mainly on the right. I don't think this is independent enough to be called a different / new route though.
Neil Foster 23 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting video upload, and a stylish, smooth lead portrayed. But in case anyone is confused, the route shown isn't Winter's Grip which climbs the left side of the arete (mostly slapping your right up the arete) all the way. Hopefully people will enjoy the original, albeit with a type of protection - hand placed pegs - which had only just been invented (on No More Excuses at Stanage), and certainly wasn't on the first ascentionist's radar at the time, hence the solo FA.
Show beta
βeta: Interesting video upload, and a stylish, smooth lead portrayed. But in case anyone is confused, the route shown isn't Winter's Grip which climbs the left side of the arete (mostly slapping your right up the arete) all the way. Hopefully people will enjoy the original, albeit with a type of protection - hand placed pegs - which had only just been invented (on No More Excuses at Stanage), and certainly wasn't on the first ascentionist's radar at the time, hence the solo FA.
Graham Hoey 15 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Crux move above break is adequately protected by Friends on left and short knife blade in slot on rhs of arete. Upper moves can also be protected by a short knife blade. Both blades will take body weight downward, but your judgement on just how good they are for taking a fall! If you're happy with them the route won't feel E6.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux move above break is adequately protected by Friends on left and short knife blade in slot on rhs of arete. Upper moves can also be protected by a short knife blade. Both blades will take body weight downward, but your judgement on just how good they are for taking a fall! If you're happy with them the route won't feel E6.

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Toproped
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mother's Pride

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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