Rockfax Description
Climb the slippery crack which splits the right-hand side of the slab as it runs leftwards - poorly protected. Move back slightly right and then make a short traverse to a good ledge above the centre of the slab (possible belay). Climb the corner-crack to a ledge then finish direct with care. It is also possible to move right round the arete to a chimney with a loose exit. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Maskery 1952. FFA. Al Parker 1957.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Millstone Edge , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Best Belay Spots , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| THE.WALRUS | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Very slippery. Spaced gear on the slab. High in the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very slippery. Spaced gear on the slab. High in the grade. |
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| Dominion | 15 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Lovely route, and 2 very distinct styles to it. Technical, delicate slab, then juggy, well protected, finish. Did the direct finish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely route, and 2 very distinct styles to it. Technical, delicate slab, then juggy, well protected, finish. Did the direct finish. |
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| MG | 1 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Straight up the groove/chimmney above the crack is the obvious finish and the one given in the definative guide. A good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Straight up the groove/chimmney above the crack is the obvious finish and the one given in the definative guide. A good route |
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| Dave Walker | 8 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: A nice warmup for MAYDAY,with a bizzare exit thru the chimney. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice warmup for MAYDAY,with a bizzare exit thru the chimney. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Mutiny Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)